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Keepsake vol One

  1. Inner cover page
  2. Ode to Helendale
  3. Bus Tours and Field Trips
  4. Self Guided tour of Route 66
  5. Helen Becomes Helendale - 1918
  6. Main Street USA
  7. Helendale Rendezvous
  8. Area Historian Previews Part of Helendale History
  9. "History Rendezvous"
  10. Mojave River Earliest Pioneers and Point of Rocks Location
  11. A Rendezvous With Our Roots
  12. Line Shacks of the early days
  13. Helendale School History
  14. Rose is an Ageless Flower
  15. History of the Helendale Post Office
  16. About Strong Bemis,
  17. Chris Beck
  18. Pony Express in San Bernardino County - history
  19. "Mail Pouch Lore"
  20. Get Your Kicks on Route 66
  21. California-Bound '30s Migrants
  22. Route 66 Was the Mother Road
  23. Helendale's Christmas Spirit
  24. Oro Grande Train Robbers
  25. My Life on Desert, 1926

Keepsake vol Two


 

 


Keepsake vol One

MY LIFE ON THE DESERT 1926
By Fred Gibson

 

In 1925 my Dad's health was not improving in Virginia City, Ca. just north of Long Beach. He was warned by his doctor that another bout with pneumonia would probably kill him. The doctor advised him to move to a drier climate.

 

About that time Arthur Brisbane, who wrote the "TODAY" column in the Hearst Newspapers, had an article about "Free Land" that was opening up for homesteading in the Mojave Desert. My dad and three other fellows drove to Mojave and then to Barstow and looked over the land available, with the help of Locaters. They decided upon a section land about 15 miles west of Barstow and 4 miles west of Hodge, in the then named Juniper Valley, about one mile south of the Old Highway 66. On Frontier Road. They each homesteaded on 160 acres. It was 1/4 mile wide and a mile long so that each would have frontage on a dirt trail that ran west of the property, Frontier Road. Gibson's had the north 1/4 then Cope's, Pool's and the south 1/4 was the Palmer's. It was required that Homesteaders live on the property for four years, clear about 20 acres, and sow at least one grain crop. Not much ever came up from this as the birds, (mostly horned Larks) ants and the lack of moisture kept most of it from ever showing. I do believe that there was more moisture in the air at that time as the goats we had used to be able to get most of their feed off the land surrounding our "shack" mostly filerey, a desert plant that came up all over the desert and made good feed. My next younger brother Jack was allergic to cows milk so drank the goats milk.

 

To PROVE UP on the property people used to have some of their friends and neighbors to sign a paper saying they had built a home or shack, lived on this property for 4 years, sowed grain as above, done all this, before they could "Prove Up" on the property. This then made it theirs as long as they paid taxes on it.

 

The property that we homestead had originally been settled on by a German family who had cleared about 80 acres of the eastern part for an orchard. But during World War I they had been known to fly a German flag and talk in a manner that was not becoming an American citizen so the Government took the property away from them.

 

The Copes and the Pools did not live very long on their places. None of the four places had wells on the property. Every time we went some place that had a well, a few five gallon cans went along to bring some water home. A kerosene lantern was used for lights in the evenings and the cook stove usually furnished most of the heat.

 

To build the houses that the four families needed, an old two story house in Compton, was bought and torn down. The lumber was divided up and hauled to the homesteads. The lumber that my dad got was enough to build the one main room and wood for the roof of the screened in porch. The lower part was built up about three feet high of rock and cement with cottonwood poles from the river bed used for posts and headers. The porch had a concrete floor.

 

The place we called home had one large room, about 15 ft. square and a screened in porch on the south and east sides covered with canvas over the screen wire. The south side had the beds for the six of us children and the east part had the cook stove, table and cupboards in it. Mom and Pop slept in the main room. In the summer times beds were often moved outside because it was cooler there.

 

After a short time I took the used wash water and mixed it with clay and rocks and built a small room just a little bigger than a bed. The mud walls were about 3 feet high. I used old burlap and cardboard for the top half of the sides and old pieces of tin for the roof. I slept in this room. It was about 75 feet northeast of the house.

 

We had a rock fireplace where we heated water in a tub when we wanted to take a bath, usually after dark. We also heated water the same way to wash clothes. We had an old Maytag Square Tub washing machine. Because we did not have any electricity we had removed the electric motor. We would back the Model T Ford up near it and jack one rear wheel up and put a big wooden pulley on a rear wheel, the one that was jacked up. Then a belt from this pulley to the pulley on the washing machine. It usually required a board or pole between the car and the washing machine to keep them separated and the belt tight. The water was well used, first as rinse water then as wash water. We usually had to haul an extra 50 gallons of water to wash with.

 

We raised goats, pigs, chickens and some turkeys. The chickens usually furnished the fresh meat and any extra eggs were taken to town to trade for chicken feed. The goats supplied us with some milk and once in awhile a little meat. When the pig was butchered it was mostly ground up into sausage and fried and then put in a large crock jar and covered with lard, which had been rendered when frying the sausage. We dug a cellar into the ground about five feet deep, then two ties were put around the edge of the hole and ties were put across the top and covered with dirt. This is where we kept the sausage, potatoes and some canned goods. This was the only way or place we had to try to keep things for future use.

 

After my dad moved to homestead, he did carpenter work on the Decrow home. Also the new house the Hodge Bros. built after selling their old house and some land to the Arthur Brisbane family. The Hodge Bros, and Brisbanes were related some how.

 

"Dad or "Pop", as I called him, also worked at a lime pit across the river from the Old Trails Service Station, which was about a mile west of our place. He drove a team of mules pulling a "Fresno Scraper" to move the lime from the pit to a hopper where it was loaded into a Model T Ford dump truck which then hauled it to a railroad siding called WILD. It was crushed into a very fine powder and loaded into railroad cars and hauled down to the citrus orchards and used there. The Fresno scraper had a long handle on it to control the loading and unloading. If it hit a rock the handle would swing sideways and Pop got a couple of broken ribs from this swinging handle.

 

Mildred, my older sister, started to Barstow High School while we lived on the homestead. The school bus was usually a converted car that had the frame extended and extra seats added. It came by on the highway a mile north of home. It was my job to crank the Model T and take her to the bus. In the winter time it was always a tough job to start a Model T. One rear wheel had to be jacked up and the other wheels blocked, hot water poured over the intake manifold and carburetor. Then the choke wire was pulled out and the engine hand cranked, "the armstrong starter method", until it would finally start.

 

I trapped for coyotes, foxes and wildcats in the winter time and had my traps along the road where I took Mildred to the school bus. I would check these along the way. There were a lot of rabbits out there also. I shot and skinned them. We ate the young ones and cut up the old and wormy ones and fed them to the chickens. I became an excellent shot with a .22 rifle. Between selling rabbits, coyotes and wildcat hides, sometimes even a skunk, I made enough money to buy my own shells, guns and some clothes. I wore out two 22 rifles. I used only 22 shorts as they were cheaper. I sold so many rabbit hides that I had enough extra money to buy a bicycle. Riding a bicycle anywhere but on the roads usually meant a flat tire as the miniature cactus which grew everywhere soon would puncture one or both tires. I tied a gunny sack over the rear fender to carry rabbits home.

 

We had a dog, part collie and bird dog, that we had got from the Jays as a pup who used to go with me when I hunted on foot. He could not catch a healthy rabbit but if I would wound one he would run in the direction of my shot and catch it. One time, Jack, my next younger brother, wandered off into the desert and Max, our dog, went along with him. When we discovered Jack and the dog were missing we called for Max and he barked back and we located them by his barking. He would not leave Jack. This good trait may have saved Jack's life. The collie part of him, no doubt.

 

A homemade school bus, usually on a Model T Ford chassis, (they were used for everything), hauled the kids to the Hodge School. The first year we went to school, there was a large one room wooden building, with an outhouse out back. Then they built a terra cota block two story building with two school rooms and two bathrooms upstairs and a large auditorium and kitchen in the basement. This room was where all the community gatherings, Sunday School, along with some of the school plays were held. There was also a small two room house for the teacher to live in west of the school. So many families moved away from this area after we moved to Barstow, that the school finally was closed and the children left in that area were bussed to Barstow. The school building was sold and the new owners converted it over to a family home, (Cofflands) for which it is still used.

 

We sometimes used to go to Victorville by the way of wild wash following the old wagon road to just beyond this point and then turn south to Victorville. The Highway or Old 66 was not paved at that time as not too much difference in roads and not having rocks thrown up by passing cars on the Highway. The school enrollment reached 22 one time. I remember some of the families who had children in school. There were the Peterson's girls, Mary Jane and Bernice, who lived up near where the Wild Wash Off  Ramp where the freeway now is; Georgia and Dorothy Cope; Marjorie Pool; Alice Decrow, Mildred, myself, Frances and Betty Gibson; Marjorie Smith; plus Elynor, June and Andrew Mains; Albert Rupert; Robert and Clara Heckley; Henry and Dudley Jay; Laura Teames; Francis and Lenora Brooke, Thelma Thomas; the Section Foreman's daughter; Montry Luce; the Station Agent's son, Don Lee Nickerson; two boys from one of the Mexican section hands families, David and Mauricio Avila; and Mildred Slagle. There was also one Colored family who had a boy and a girl, Eva and Roy Sheafer, who were in school a year or so. One teacher taught all eight grades in one room, as was the case in most small schools at that time. Some of the names of the teachers were: Mr. Walker Miss Violet Gifford Owens, Mrs. Nickerson, (not the station agent's wife), and Miss Esther Sparkman. Albert Rupert and Elynor Mains, were my age and in my grade of school.

 

Albert Rupert lived on a ranch on the north side of the river across from the Hodge Bros. Ranch. His mother had married a man by the name of  Windsor Mc Lain, who was trying to run an alfalfa ranch there. It did not have very good fencing around the alfalfa fields and the jackrabbits ate more of the hay than he harvested. They had two men working for them sometimes and paid them $30.00 a month plus room and board. Bill Griffith and Slim Shay were two I remember. No school buses went to the north side of the river so Albert rode his horse, "Dolly", to school most of the time. The Mc Lain place had originally been planned to be a dairy ranch as a milk barn remains were there and a tall silo, which still stands, could be seen for miles. With the forty or so acres of alfalfa to water a large reservoir was used to store up water. A pump ran almost constantly pumping water into it. Between the pump and the reservoir there was a building which had a place where the water ran through a round pit and food was kept in the water as it was about 58 degrees.

 

There were lots of cottonwood and mesquite trees along the river then and the river usually ran on the surface most of the winter months. We got lots of our stove wood there along with old railroad ties that the section crew left along the railroad tracks. They knew that the ties would be put to good use and not wasted. I hunted in the woods along the river and sometimes I would come upon "small whiskey stills" hidden among the trees. I left them as found. I did not feel these were anything I should be fooling with.

 

At home it was my job to cut and split wood for the stoves and haul it into the house, feed the animals, haul water and drive my sisters to school when there was not a school bus. I learned to drive a car when I was about 10 or 11 years old. Besides my work at home I had a part time job first for a Mr. Albright, who lived about 1 1/2 miles south of us and was raising turkeys. My job for him was raking up rocks for him to use in making concrete. This was not too profitable a venture for him, so that job did not last long. I then went to work for the Hodge Bros. irrigating alfalfa and shocking hay, which was bunching it up so it could be put into the baler. I also helped bale hay and on my first morning doing this I was warned to put the hay up on the baler and then quickly get my pitch fork out of the way of the "Chinaman", a wooden plunger that came down from above and pushed the hay in the baler to be compressed. Well, I was too slow and the "Chinaman" caught my fork and I had to walk back to the barn for a new fork. I never let that happen again. Al Heckley and John Mains also helped in the bailing of hay.

 

Once Mildred and I drove the Model T to Minneola, a place about 3 miles west of Daggett, to visit some friends, the Thompsons. Mildred was a good looking girl and had lots of boy friends. That day one of the Thompson boys offered to drive Mildred home. Said he could beat me, just to get rid of me so he could be alone with Mildred. I think I left first and drove the Model T as hard as it would go toward home. I got it so hot it would quit running at times and then it knocked all the rod bearings out plus burned the clutch bands up. Well I beat Mildred home but the engine in the Model T had to be scrapped it was in such bad shape. Mildred and I both got into trouble over that, Mildred for egging me on and not coming home with me, and me for driving it so hard. This was just after the Mains died and had left their Model T at their place so we borrowed the engine from that car. I drove that Model T, after making many modifications to the engine, brakes, gearing, springs, and body. It hauled many a school friend around, till about 1933, when I traded it in on a 1925 Chevrolet Roadster.

 

I was tall for my age. At 13 I was 6 ft 1 in. and about 145 pounds. I could and did work like a man, and probably ate like one too.

 

Along about 1929 Elynor Mains died suddenly from eating some home canned meat that had turned to poison. Shortly after that her mother died and then her father. This left June a girl of about 11 with the responsibilities of taking care of two younger brothers and two younger sisters. Her dad had belonged to the Yeoman Lodge which maintained a children's home called, Yoeman City of Childhood, at Algin, Illionis. Different people volunteered to take different ones of the children. But the father, before he died, said he did not want the children separated, so the five all went to live in this home until they were 18 years old. Then they went out on their own. June being the oldest was the first to leave and the others usually came to be with her when they left home until 'they' got started on their own. While we lived at Hodge somebody shot a wild burro for food north of Hodge so several of us went hunting but did not see or get any. I usually hunted with a 22 rifle, using shorts, but this time I, borrowed Bill Griffith's 30/30.

 

My dad had a double barreled 12 gauge shotgun. I borrowed it one time and went rabbit hunting. Not knowing too much about shot guns I had fingers on both triggers when I aimed it at a rabbit. It nearly knocked me down and only broke a hind leg on the rabbit. I think that was the only time I ever fired a shotgun.

 

One day when we came home from school neither my dad or mother were home. A note told us that they were over on the eastern part of our property. They were dreaming about building another home on ground that might grow things and be closer to water, if we were ever able to have a well dug.

 

I had spent many an hour digging a hole about 100 ft. south of the house as the start of a well, but I was only able to dig it down about 21 feet.

 

As many of you know Sears and Roebuck catalogs served many a purpose and many hung on the walls of Outhouses and were used for a good purpose, as ours did.

 

The old REO touring car, the car we came to California in, finally had to be discarded, as it had one bad fault, the connecting rods would give up and then the crankshaft would hit a connecting rod and drive it out the side of the block through the crankcase, making a hole that was hard to repair. The proper kind of hinge pins were hard to find so after many a repair job on the crankcase my dad finally gave in and had to stoop to buying and driving a Model T. He hated them. As soon as he could he bought a Buick touring car and then a Dodge Sedan, our first closed in car. Both the Buick and the Dodge had electric starters which was a big improvement over the Model T.

 

While we lived at the homestead the Old Ford Tri Motor airplanes used to fly over, usually not very high either. They had fields every 50 or so miles. One was beside the road about 5 miles from the top of Cajon Pass, Miller's corner, and another at Lenwood where they would stop and gas up and let the passengers out for food or drinks and restrooms. A trip in those days to San Bernardino was a whole days job and mostly two. Service stations were about every 5 miles along the way as frequent repairs, water, oil and tires were needed. Before going down Cajon Pass one stopped at the top and checked the tires and brakes. The road was steep and very twisty as it followed the outline of the hills. Many a car went over the side and the remains could be seen from the road. The road was not too wide so it was very slow driving. When you met somebody going the opposite direction you usually stopped and let them go by, or visa versa.

 

My Dad's health improved after coming to the desert, but he still would have attacks of asthma and I remember my mother having to give him shots so he could breathe. He still had trouble with asthma and emphysema till he died, but lived till he was 88.

 

My youngest brother, Lewis Lee "Lewie", was born at the homestead in 1929. He was the first of the seven children of Fred Gibson Sr. and Cora Gibson to die. He passed away on Labor Day in 1984 at the age of 55 from a massive heart attack. He left a wife, Myrna, and a son, John Arthur Gibson, age 19 years.

 

In 1930 when I graduated from Grammar School we moved into Barstow. There was not enough time for me to do a11 the work for the Hodge Bros. that summer. During the Christmas vacation I went back out to the homestead and trapped, I did not have very much luck. Mr. Jay had been trapping and had caught a coyote that had ran off with the trap, he asked me to help him track it. We went out after an hour or so we found the coyote up in the hills across the river, he jumped up and started to run off, as usual I had my trusty old 22 along and sent one shot off in his direction and luckily I hit him in the neck on the first shot. I hunted an awful lot and had become an excellent shot and seldom missed.

 


 

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