Points of Interest
Voices of the Desert
Overview of the Area
Mitchell's Caverns

 


 

 


 

Mojave National Preserve
Needles
Goffs
Essex & Danby
Summit & Chambless
Amboy
Bagdad & Siberia
Ludlow
Newberry Springs
Daggett
Barstow
Lenwood
Helendale (Silver Lakes)
Oro Grande
Victorville
Cajon Summit
San Bernardino
Rialto
Fontana
Rancho Cucamonga
Upland
Claremont
Pomona
La Verne
San Dimas
Glendora
Azusa
Irwindale
Duarte
Monrovia
Arcadia
Pasadena
South Pasadena
Highland Park
Los Angeles
Chinatown
West Hollywood
Beverly Hills
Century City
Santa Monica

 


Voices of the Desert

The Newspaper of the California Desert
Volume 1 First Edition 1995

 

Editors
Kay Rohde
Leslie de Beauchamp

 

Layout and Artwork
Leslie de Beauchamp

 

Contributors to this issue
Kathy Billings, Elayne Briggs, Frank Buono,
Phil Damon, Roni Fortun, Glen Gossard,
Harold Johnson, Lynn Nakata, and Kay Rohde


Contents


President Clinton Signs the California Desert Protection Act

President Clinton signed the California Desert Protection Act into law on October 31, 1994. The final legislation passed by Congress created the 1.4 million-acre Mojave National Preserve. It also expanded Death Valley and Joshua Tree National Monuments by 1.3 million and 234,000 acres respectively and designated them as national parks. The Act designated 3.57 million acres of land as wilderness in 69 separate areas to be managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The Act also designated 95,000 acres of U.S. Forest Service and 9,000 acres of U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service lands as wilderness.

 

In signing the Act, President Clinton called the southern California desert "a resource of extraordinary and inestimable value."

 

The President said, "This is the first time since 1980 that the United States has set aside so rich and vast an area. The broad vistas, the rugged mountain ranges, and the evidence of the human past are treasures that merit protection on behalf of the American people."

 

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Managing the California Desert

Planning officials must manage the diverse activities that take place in the southern California desert, without sacrificing the plant and animal species listed as threatened or endangered. Ranching, mining, wind energy production and recreation are among the many activities taking place on desert public lands. Additionally, desert principalities must plan for expansion through the development of private and public lands within their boundaries.

 

Recognizing the need to work together, 27 California local, state and federal government organizations charged with land management signed an Agreement on Biological Diversity in 1991. Building on this agreement, several ecosystem plans covering specific geographic regions are in various stages of development. These plans are being developed jointly by local, state and federal organizations who manage lands in the designated regions. For example, the West Mojave Ecosystem Management Plan covers 9 million acres and is nearing completion.

 

Congress recognized the desert to be a fragile, easily scarred, and slowly healed ecosystem and in 1976 mandated preparation and implementation of a comprehensive long-range plan for the management, use, development, and protection of the public lands within the desert. The legislation designated the California Desert Conservation Area and in 1980 the first large-scale bioregional ecosystem management plan was released as a dynamic management "umbrella" document from which plans such as the West Mojave plan are derived.

 

In 1994 Congress responded to the growing pressures on the desert and the public's desire to enhance the protection and preservation of the area's unique resources. Passage of the act compounds the effect of other new land-use constraints to protect ecological resources, such as the limits imposed by the Desert Tortoise Recovery Plan produced by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

 

The regional ecosystem management plans, such as the West Mojave, incorporate all of these land use restraints to provide managers with a comprehensive decision tool for developing the desert public lands remaining for multiple use, management plans for the new wilderness and park lands, and county and municipal land use plans. The 1994 California Desert Protection Act displaces a number of activities from the newly-designated park and wilderness areas, making these land-use decisions even more critical.

 

Planning on such a large scale with declining resources means that the agencies involved must shed themselves of any parochial attitudes and work together as partners. An excellent example of how these partnerships can benefit the agencies and the public is the joint planning that the National Park Service (NPS) and the Bureau of Land Managernent (BLM) have been doing for several months to provide a smooth transfer of lands designated by the Act to move from BLM to NPS management. This planning is based on sound ecosystem management principles and is designed to fit into the larger regional ecosystem management plans.

 

The California desert recently was designated an Innovative Management Laboratory for developing and implementing bioregional ecosystem plans for the desert by Vice-president Gore's National Review team, which is working to streamline the workings of the federal government.

 

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What is the Difference Between a National Park, a National Wilderness and a National Preserve?

Death Valley and Joshua Tree were proclaimed as National Monuments in the 1930's. Woth the enactment of the California Desert Protection Act of 1994, these two areas are now National Parks. The third National Park system unit in the California Desert is the Mojave National Preserve. What's in a name?

 

The National Park Service manages over 20 kinds of parklands, each requiring congressional approval, except for national monuments which can be proclaimed by the President. The title "national park" has generally been assigned to the greatest national scenic attractions of the National Park system. The term implies a large, spectacular natural place having a wide variety of attributes. In recent years, areas with characteristics associated with national parks such as size, unique natural and cultural qualities and superlative scenery, but which also allow hunting or other commercial uses have been designated as "National Preserves."

 

Congress designated the first national preserve in 1974 when it established Big Thicket National Preserve in Texas and Big Cypress National Preserve in Florida. Congress labeled the two units as "national preserves" primarily because, in those units, non-federal oil and gas rights could be developed. Congress also authorized grazing, agriculture, hunting, trapping and off-road vehicle use in the two preserves. Because these activities are generally not consistent with park preservation, Congress decided to entitle the units as something other than "national parks" or "national monuments."

 

Congress named Mojave a national preserve because hunting and trapping are authorized in the unit. Hunting and trapping were not authorized in Death Valley or Joshua Tree National Parks. Except for hunting and trapping, Mojave National Preserve will be managed the same as Death Valley and Joshua Tree National Parks.

 

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What is Wilderness?

The California Desert Protection Act designated more than 7.6 million acres of wilderness to be managed by the Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, and U.S. Forest Service. What is Wilderness?

 

To some people, wilderness is an escape to solitude and freedom. To others, wilderness means trees and birds and wildlife, or a wilderness is any piece of undeveloped land.

 

The 1964 Wilderness Act defines wilderness as federal lands officially designated by Congress and the President as part of the National Wilderness Preservation System. Wilderness Area are (in part):

 

  • Lands that appear to be natural or undisturbed, and where human-caused changes are essentially unnoticeable;
  • Lands that offer a feeling of quiet and solitude, or provide outstanding opportunities for primitive and unconfined forms of recreation;
  • Lands that contain ecological, geological or other features of scientific, scenic, or historical value; and
  • Lands large enough to preserve and use as wilderness, generally at least 5,000 acres.

 

Wilderness designations are intended to help maintain biodiversity, conserve natural areas, provide habitat for wildlife, and promote opportunities for scientific and historic research. Beyond these purposes, the emotional appeal of the timeless natural splendors of a wilderness seems to touch the mind, heart and soul of everybody.

 

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What are Public Lands?

The concept of public land goes back to our nation's earliest days. The framers of our Constitution agreed that those undesignated lands west of the colonies should not belong to individual states, but owned in common for the benefit of all Americans.

 

Accurate surveys were needed before the new public lands could be identified for sale or other disposition. In 1812, the General Land Office (predecessor to the present-day Bureau of Land Management) was established to oversee the surveying and disposal of public lands.

 

During the next 164 years these public lands were made available through a variety of means such as the Homestead Act, grants to establish railroads and roads, Indian reservations, national parks and forests, and military reservations.

 

Today more than 300 million acres, most of which lie west of the Mississippi River, remain in the public domain. These public lands are managed under the concept of multiple use by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), an agency in the U.S. Department of the Interior.

 

Public lands include deserts, mountains, prairies and streams which are home to wildlife and provide opportunities for a variety of recreation. Camping, hiking, hunting, and recreational vehicle use are just a few of the recreational activities.

 

Public lands are bountiful as well as beautiful. Cattle and sheep graze the public land in the western states, and mining provides energy and minerals needed in industry.

 

Multiple-use management strategies include the practice of "sustained yield" in managing the many renewable natural resources found on public lands. This practice will insure that totay's demands do not diminish the resource base that will be needed by future generations of Americans.

 

Thanks to the wisdom and foresight of our forefathers, that has been and continues to be the role of America's public domain -- your public lands.

 

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Wilderness Use

In a wilderness, visitors are on their own and are responsible for their own safety.

 

To maintain lands designated as wilderness in their natural state, some restrictions must be observed.

 

BLM Managed Wilderness

Motorized vehicles, bicycles, hang gliders, boats or aircraft are not allowed.

 

Hunting, fishing, and non-commercial trapping are allowed under state and local laws.

 

Pets are allowed.

 

Horses or other recreational livestock may require a special permit and you may be required to carry feed.

 

Campfires may be permitted. Wood gathering is limited to dead and down material. No live vegetation may be cut.

 

Hobby rock collecting is allowed only by non-mechanical means for non-commercial purposes.

 

Wilderness permits may be required.

 

NPS Wilderness

Motorized vehicles, bicycles, hang gliders, boats or aircraft are not allowed.

 

Hunting is not allowed in Death Valley and Joshua Tree NATIONAL parks. Hunting is allowed in Mojave National Preserve under state and local laws.

 

Target shooting is not allowed.

 

Horses or other recreation livestock may require a special permit and you may be required to carry feed.

 

Pets are not allowed.

 

Collecting firewood, rocks and minerals, and vegetation is not allowed.

 

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Desert Safety Tips

Travel in the desert can be an adventure. It can also be a disaster if a breakdown or a sudden change in weather catches you unprepared. Be aware of the hazards of desert travel both in winter and summer. Harsh weather conditions can turn a desert outing into a tragedy. Acquire a knowledge of desert survival skills. Travel in pairs for safety in backcountry areas.

 

Plan your Trip Carefully

Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Stick with your itinerary and let them know shen you return. Do not travel in the desert backcountry without taking along appropriate maps such as 7.5 minute U.S.G.S. topographic maps which show land contours and specific features. Learn how to use a topographic map and a compass before you hike cross-contry or on trails that are not well defined. It is easy to become disoriented in the desert where many landmards and rock formations look similar.

 

Dress Properly

In summer, layered clothing slows dehydration and minimizes exposure. Good hiking shoes, loose fitting natural-fiber clothin, a wide brimmed hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are a must. Desert temperature can reach over 90 degrees fahrenheit (32 decgree centigrade) and drop to below 50 degrees fahrenheit (10 degrees centigrade) in one day. Summer temperatures can reach 125 degrees fahrenheit in some locations. In winter temperatures can often drop below freezing. Bring extra warm clothing.

 

Carry Plenty of Water

There are no dependable sources of water within the California desert. A gallon of water per person, per day is the absolute minimum that should be carried. When planning a hike, remember that water weighs approximately eight pounds per gallon. When the water is half gone, it is time to turn back. Don't forget extra water for your vehicle. DO NOT RATION YOUR WATER. It will only do you good if you drink it.

 

Mine Shafts

Do not enter mine shafts. They are extremely hazardous.

 

Vehicles

Keep your vehicle well-maintained. Carry extra water and non- protein food, a shovel, tools, flares, and blankets. Check road conditions and beware of flash floods. If you are stranded, stay with you vehicle. It is much easier to spot a vehicle than a person on foot.

 

Back Country Permits

A back country permit may be required for overnight camping or travel. Check with the appropriate BLM or NPS office for the area you will be in.

 

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Desert Driving Tips

A four-wheel drive vehicle is not required for desert driving, unless you travel extensively on dirt roads. High clearance vehicles are recommended for driving on unpaved roads.

 

  1. Use common sense when driving on unpaved roads. Drive slowly and carefully and don't take chances.
  2. Vehicles should be will-maintained and in good working order.
  3. Carry additional supplies that may be needed in and emergency: water, oil, radiator hoses, a fan belt, fuses and a tool kit.
  4. Since gas stations are few and far between, gas up whenever possible.
  5. Leave word with friends or family where you are going and when you plan to return.
  6. Vehicles in national parks and preserves must remain on designated roads, and must be street legal.

 

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Flash Floods

The California Desert is flash flood country. Stay out of all narrow canyons and washes when the weather is threatening or raining. Be alert for lightning, especially in open areas. Storms can arrive quickly and unexpectedly.

 

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Leave No Trace

The desert is a fragile environment. Scars on the land last a long time. Many of the plants and animals are specially adapted to living in this land of climatic extremes. By taking special care to LEAVE NO TRACE, we can help to insure that this fragile place remains healthy and unscarred.

 

BEFORE YOU GO

  • Obtain information about the area and use restrictions that may apply.
  • Plan you trip for "off season" or non-holiday times. If this is not possible, go to less popular areas.
  • Choose equipment in earth tome colors: blue, green tan, etc.
  • Repackage food in containers tha can be packed out or burned.

 

ON YOUR WAY

  • Stay on designated trails.
  • Do not cut across switchbacks.
  • When traveling cross country, hike in small groups and spread out.
  • Do not hang signs or ribbons or carve on trees to mark travel routes.
  • When meeting horseback riders, step off lower side of trail, stand still, and talk quietly.

 

WHILE YOU ARE THERE

  • In high-use areas, choose already existing campsites.
  • In remote areas, choose sites which cannot be damaged by your stay.
  • All campsites should be at least 200 feet (1/4 mile in Death Valley) from water and trails.
  • Hide camp from view.
  • Do not dig trenches around tents.
  • Avoid building camp structures. If temporary structures are built, dismantle completely before leaving.

 

CAMPFIRES

  • Use a lightweight gas stove for cooking rather than a fire.
  • In areas where fires are permitted, use existing fire rings. Do not build new fire rings. Do not build fires against large rocks.
  • Use dead and down wood no larger than the size of you forearm.
  • Do not break branches off trees.
  • Put fire completely out (cold to the touch) before leaving.

 

SANITATION

  • Deposit human waste and toilet paper in "cat holes." Cat holes are six to eight inches deep and should be located at least 75 paces from water or camp. Cover and disguise cat holes when finished.
  • Wash dishes, clothes, and yourself away from natural water sources such as springs, streams, and lake shores.
  • Cover latrine and wash-water holes thoroughly before breaking camp.
  • Pick up all trash (yours and others) and pack it out.

 

COURTESY

  • Avoid loud music and voices or other loud noises.
  • Keep pets under control at all times. Better still, leave them at home.
  • Leave all natural and cultural features as you found them for others to enjoy.

 

BEFORE YOU LEAVE

  • Take one last look at where you have been and do your best to Leave No Trace.

    For more information on this program call 1-800-332-4100.

 

Remember the the Leave No Trace guidelines are more than a set of rules. They are an attitude. They will help you, and all of us, preserve wild lands and open spaces for everyone.

 

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The Singing Sands Mountain

NOTE: Although this article does not, strictly speaking, belong with this collection of material I was halfway through entering it manually when I discovered that the article dealt with the Eureka Sand Dunes and not the Kelso Sand Dunes as I had assumed. The Eureka Sand Dunes are part of the Death Valley National Park.

 

The article is quite interesting so I have left it in. Enjoy!
William E. Mutschler

 

Towering 900 feet above the Eureka Valley is one of the tallest sand dune fields in North America. The dunes have a fascinating geologic story. At various times during the Ice Age, the basin contained a deep freshwater lake. As the climate changed, the lake dried and wind and other erosional forces started to break down the alluvial slopes of surrounding mountains, eventually creating sand. Dry desert winds push sand in one direction while opposing mountain winds keep the sand from traveling beyound it present location. These winds hold the sand prisoner creating the massive "sand mountain." Complex wind directions consistently change sand patterns. The different patterns caused by the wind can be seen on the dunes. Everything from the small ripples to the large collapsing slipfaces are visible evidence of constantly changing winds.

 

The Eureka Dunes are one of the rare "singing" dune fields of North America. If winds are active or if many people are walking on the dunes, the dry, sorted grains of sand which are spherical and polished, rub together and produce a sound similar to distant flying aircraft.

 

The unique flora and fauna inhabiting the dunes are as fascinating as the geologic story. The dunes are home to creosote bush shadescale, and indigo bush, as well as many other plant species including two endemic species (found nowhere else in the world): Eureka Dune grass and the Eureka Dunes evening primrose. Both of these plants are federally listed endangered species. The perennial dune grass is a "binding grass" that holds clumps of sand together. The dunes can hold enough water to supply the grass with the moisture it needs. The Eureka Dunes evening primrose blooms during the spring but only when enough rain has fallen during the winter.

 

Thirty six species of birds, 29 mammal species and nine reptile species call the dunes home. Countless insect species can be found in the dunes, including four endemic beetles. The pallid kangaroo mouse also inhabits this region. Like the kangaroo rat, it adapts to hot, arid environments by being active at night, living in sandy burrows and metabolically producing water from food.

 

The animals living on or near the dunes leave their footprints as evidence of their passing, until the next wind erases them. Visitors, too, can explore the dunes on foot. Please take care not to step on the animal burrows or plants when climbing the dunes. Leave only your footprints to be blown away in the next shift of the wind.

 

The Dunes are located at the southern end of the Eureka Valley. A dirt road leaving the unpaved Death Valley Road, which connects California State Highway 168 east of Big Pine and Grapevine in Death Valley, provides access to the dunes. Remember that vehicles are not allowed on the dunes themselves.

 

The Eureka Sand Dunes are reached by dirt roads. High-clearance vehicles are recommended. Be sure to take precautions for desert travel. (see "Desert Safety Tips")

 

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The Cima Dome

Cima Dome rises nearly 1500 feet above the floor of the desert in Mojave National Preserve. Best viewed from such locations as Cedar Canyon Road and the northern end of Mid_hills Campground, this almost pervectly rounded dome covers approximately 75 square miles. Cima Dome is a small batholith (a molten mass of rock that stopped rising while it was still well below the surface), once covered with volcanic material, uplifted and since eroded to its present form. The rock outcroppings seen in the Teutonia Peak area of Cima Dome are composed of the same type of rock that forms the distinctive outcroppings in Joshua Tree National Park.

 

A large, dense forest of Joshua trees covers the top of Cima Dome. The Joshuq tree is the symbol of the Mojave Desert and thrives at this elevation (around 4,000 feet). This large member of the lily family shelters a thriving community of plants and animals.

 

The Teutonia Peak Trail on Cima Dome offers an excellent opportunity to explore this unique area. The 4-mile round trip to the top of the peak takes two to three hours. The trailhead is located at the crest of Cima Road, 12 miles south of Interstate 15.

 

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Visitor Information Centers

Ridgecrest Resource Area
300 S. Richmond Road
Ridgecrest, CA 93555
(760) 375 7125

El Centro Resource Area
1661 S. 4th
El Centro, CA 92258
(760) 353 1060

Interagency Visitor Center
Junctions Hwy 395 & Hwy 136
Drawer R
Lone Pine, CA 93545
(760) 876 6222

Joshua Tree National Park
74485 National Monument Dr.
Twenty Nine Palms, CA 92277
(760 367 7511

Lake Mead
National Recreation Area
601 Nevada Highway
Boulder City, NV 89005
(702) 293 8918

Mojave National Preserve
Barstow, CA
(760) 786 2331

Death Valley National Park
Death Valley, CA 92328
(760) 786 2331

Barstow Resource Area
150 Coolwater Lane
Barstow, CA 92311
(760) 255 8700

Needles Resource Area
101 W. Spike's Road
Needles, CA 92363
(760) 326 7000

California Desert District Office
6221 Box Springs Blvd.
Riverside, CA 92507
(909) 697 5200

California Desert
Information Center
831 Barstow Road
Barstow, California 92311
(760) 256 8313

Palm Springs
South Coast Resource Area
83-500 Garnet Avenue
North Palm Springs, CA 92258
(760) 251 4800

California Department of Parks
and Recreation
Mojave Desert Sector
1051 West Ave. M. Suite 201
Lancaster, CA 93534
(805) 942 0662

 

 

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